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His heroes were the unique dressmaker Madame Grs, who left him her personal collection of 300 gowns, and Cristbal Balenciaga, who redirected clients to Givenchy when he closed his own house despite the fact that Balenciaga was baroque in spirit, while Givenchy was a neoclassicist

It is an heirloom Chinese dress, also known as a Cheongsam, made to order for clients who want craftsmanship and cultural meaning in a modern setting

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The Olivia gown features a dramatic A-line silhouette in black brocade fabric, with a deep sweetheart neckline, wide straps, and a bold high slit

How First Ladies Have Used Fashion for Diplomacy By Jewel Samad/AFP/Getty Images