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In an accompanying book to the exhibition, Little Black Dress: A Radical Fashion, Georgina Ripley suggests it's down to the Royals

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You can tag along the plain-toe Oxfords with your work ensembles to business engagements or to honor invites on other occasions

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But while a rich woman might now better blend into the crowd, on closer inspection, there would be some small detail in her seemingly anonymous garmenta certain cut or fabric or labelthat acted as a secret handshake for those in the know