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Fashion historian James Laver writes, The dominant figure was now a respectable bourgeois, who had no desire to make himself conspicuous but wished merely to present a gentlemanly appearance what we are watching, in fact, in this period is the fading away of flamboyance and color from mens garments. (169-170) The exaggerated hourglass silhouette of 1830s menswear, achieved with padding and closely shaped coats, gave way to a long, narrow line in the 1840s